As spring gradually approaches and temperatures rise, the incidence of tomato bacterial wilt, blight, and root-knot nematode disease begins to increase. These three diseases often present similar symptoms on the surface, making it difficult for farmers to distinguish them. This article aims to provide a detailed comparison of their characteristics and effective control measures, helping growers identify and manage these diseases more effectively.
**Tomato Bacterial Wilt**
One of the most noticeable signs of bacterial wilt is the wilting of plants. If you cut the base of the stem, you’ll notice that the vascular tissue has turned brown. If left untreated, the plant will repeatedly wilt and eventually die. The best way to prevent and treat bacterial wilt is by using root treatments such as **Dithane (DT)** combined with **neomycin** or **streptomycin**, along with a rooting agent. When applying chemicals to the roots, it's also advisable to spray unaffected plants with the same solution as a preventive measure. Since the bacteria can spread through water, flooding should be strictly avoided in greenhouses where infected plants are present. Additionally, applying foliar fertilizers or growth conditioners like **Harvest No. 1**, **Yunda 120**, and **Love More** can help promote recovery. It’s important to reduce nitrogen fertilizer use, and instead focus on organic and balanced phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to strengthen plant immunity.
**Fusarium Wilt**
This disease typically shows symptoms after the fungus has colonized the plant. In the early stages, lower leaves may turn yellow and then brown, remaining attached to the stem. One side of the stem may show yellowing while the other remains normal, and in some cases, only part of a leaf may be affected. As the disease progresses, the yellowing spreads upward, leaving only a few leaves at the top. A key sign is the presence of pink mold at the base of the stem when conditions are moist. To manage Fusarium, crop rotation with pungent vegetables like garlic or onions for 3–4 years is recommended. Use disease-free seeds, and soak them in 52°C warm water for 30 minutes before planting. Mixing seeds with **carbendazim** or using disease-free soil in the nursery can also help. Improving ventilation and reducing soil temperature in greenhouses is crucial. In the early stages, apply **50% benomyl** diluted 1000 times, watering each plant with 200 ml every 7–10 days for 1–3 applications.
**Root-Knot Nematode Disease**
This disease primarily affects the fibrous and lateral roots of tomatoes. Infected roots contain small, milky-white nematodes, and new roots formed on the galls can re-infect the plant, leading to tumor-like growths. Affected plants may appear stunted, weak, or prematurely aged. Control methods include improving field management by ensuring proper irrigation and fertilization to boost plant resistance. Infected plants should be removed, burned, or buried deeply. During the middle growth stage, a combination of **avermectin**, **Harvest No. 1**, **Jianzhibao**, and **Awei organic fertilizer** can be used. For chemical control, applying **Zhijianzhi medicine fertilizer** or **Awei organic fertilizer** during sowing or planting can help reduce nematode damage. Additionally, during greenhouse downtime, using **lime nitrogen** for high-temperature fumigation or strict sterilization with bromine can be effective.
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